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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Playing with Tinkercad for box design
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| Bowden_P Senior Member  Joined: 20/03/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 176 |
Hi Mick, I use PrusaSlicer for .stk to .gcode conversion, which has many control options, including an infill density control. Does your slicer have a similar feature? Could you use another slicer to get this function? With best regards, Paul. Nothing so constant as change. |
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Mixtel90 Guru  Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 9220 |
<Insert name of Deity here> knows! It's an elderly version of Cura. This has been recommended for this particular printer rather than the newer versions, probably because of the age of the printer. I can definitely set the wall thickness and infill density though, but AFAIK you can't change the infill pattern. I think I might have found a possible solution but I've not tested it. Print the enclosure side standing on its back. That way the clip should be stronger as the layering is along its length rather than across it. I may need a tree support under the clip but that should be ok, I think. ----------------------- Ideally I'd switch to PETG for these but I can't afford another spool at the moment - I decided to prioritise on getting some boxes and desiccant so I can put my existing spool away when it isn't needed for days. I printed Benchy the other day and it came out really nicely! The hole in the funnel is undersize and the text on the stern isn't clear (Z banding), but otherwise it's not bad at all. :) Mick Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini |
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| EDNEDN Guru Joined: 18/02/2023 Location: United StatesPosts: 308 |
The Prusa Slicer used https://slic3r.org/ as its base. Either of those is very easy to configure for your machine and you get a whole bunch of infill options. Usually... Hexagonal infill makes sense for me. |
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| mozzie Guru Joined: 15/06/2020 Location: AustraliaPosts: 468 |
G'day Mick, Looking at your box design and the limited size of your print bed, would it be possible to use 2 of the mounting screws to also hold down the lid? IE: 2 short blind standoffs in the bottom of the box for holding down the PCB with self-tapping screws 2 short thru standoffs in the base, countersunk from underneath, with matching long blind stanoffs in the lid fitted with thread inserts to both clamp the PCB and attach the lid. Just a thought. 3D printers are an awesome thing but getting good strong results can be a lot of trial and error (+trial +error +trial +error +trial +error....) Regards, Lyle. |
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| Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 9220 |
That was something I considered. I rejected it initially because it meant making the top and bottom as different components and I was trying to use the same model for both. Latest try:   I've not fitted brass inserts yet so the board is floating. The two halves of the case *almost* clip together now, and the clip doesn't snap off. I used recessed lettering on the front just to see if it was possible with this 14-yr old cheap machine. :) I think I may have to increase the retraction a bit to reduce some stringing. These are printed with the box half standing on its back edge. Layering isn't too objectionable and is longitudinal on the clip to strengthen it. I'm having a problem with HDMI on Elemento now. It's generating text ok, but there is a noisy red background on the one monitor that will synch. I may need to select something other than 640x480 50/60Hz but I'm busy with something else at the moment (version 2.0 of PC3x). Mick Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini |
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